The OSM map gets extra points today because it shows us where to get drinking water: There's a pump right next to the level crossing. It's become quite hot, almost 30 degrees. We fill up everything we have. A man comes from his yard and wants to fill his buckets. Menno asks if he can take a photo. Sure, says Sergei, and invites us to tea. Encounters, hospitality, abandoned villages and lonely stretches of land: this diary takes you on a 4000-kilometer journey through rarely visited corners of three countries in north-eastern Europe. With bikes and tent we cycle far away from tourism from Russia to Karelia, through Finland and across the Arctic Circle. Spring