Sherpa legend told of an enchanted valley with an invisible village, Shangri- La, that was said to be a place of great beauty. The valley became the nemesis of legendary mountaineer Edmund Hillary, who travelled there to climb 7,129m Baruntse, but succumbed to the irresistible draw of Makalu, the great black mountain which towered over the valley. Makalu vanquished him, and he was never the same climber again. Fifty years later, Mark Horrell embarked on a trek up the Barun Valley to follow in Hillary's footsteps - at least some of the way. He hoped to climb Baruntse, but when he arrived, he learned of a