8/24/2004 day five on the way to the source of the Indus river, Western Chang Tang Sleeping bag coated with a layer of ice in the morning, the tent an ice cocoon / trying to melt ice from the creek in the morning; 4,700 meters altitude; day three after straying from the main route and walking toward the pass / backpack 30 kilos / No idea when I’ll encounter the next nomadic camp. The nature of this plateau / what kind of freedom is this? / at the same time, fear of being alone / I haven’t seen anyone in 3 days / taking slow steps