Milan has a reputation for being industrious but look in the right places and you'll discover that it also knows how to let its hair down. Don't take our word for it: don your snappiest gear and see for yourself. Few things will be handed to you on a plate in Milan - except, perhaps, a generous portion of rich and creamy risotto con ossobuco. The Lombard capital has an enviable wealth of restaurants, shops and galleries but the best are often hard to find. This is a city that rewards those who take the time to tap on a closed door and look beyond an unassuming stone façade. Naturally, as a mecca for fashion fans and design